Wednesday, March 18, 2009

A Korean Mallu!!!


Mcleodganj, Dec 2008
Peace Cafe.
Right after this picture was taken, I tried to pass her as my own child. If you can't notice the family resemblance, then there is seriously something to be said abt the idea of internationalism that we 've been dreaming about.
I think the todd was really 'HAPPY' being held by me (yeah right Nitin)
Someday I'll have my own, hopefully they'll look like me too. Obviously the good looks won't be attributed to me :)
Photo Credit: Sushmit Ghosh - The Bong Mother

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Aguirre: The Wrath Of God


Through the eyes of Spanish monk Gaspar De Carvajal, the tale of Lope de Aguirre unfolds in the Amazonian rainforest. On the quest for El Dorado - the fabled land of Gold, conquistadores under Gonzalo Pizarro set out deep into the unrelenting jungles of modern-day Peru.
When rations and men are reduced to grime and dirt, Pizarro decides to send out a forward expedition to seek out the land of gold. Aguirre, the protagonist is placed second under command of the reconnaissance mission. When the leader of the expedition Ursua, decides to return to Pizarro, Aguirre stages a mutiny and holds the expedition hostage. As the mission raft winds its way deeper into the jungle, the fate of the mission - impending doom, dawns on the mutineers and the hostages.
What unfolds is the ultimate denegeration of humanity, where low men die of poisoned arrows when not stung by hunger and madness while high birth falls prey to intrigue, conspiracy and sometimes utter foolishness.
Werman Herzog's 1972 film takes the viewer back to the 16th century, where armadas and Inquisitions terrorised the 'Old' and wiped out the 'New' World. More than the technique and the pace of the story telling, what intrigues me is Herzog's vision of Aguirre. The devil incarnate or should I say the Wrath Of God, the character of Lope De Aguirre is so well etched, that it makes the art of villainy to the next level only to be perfected in decades to come [read Heath Ledger's Joker]
Klaus Kinski's depiction of Aguirre is not his own, but Herzog himself, it may seem. As I read the stories around the making of the film, it becomes clearer it's the director not the actor who's on the raft heading towards certain death. Or Victory.
Kinski wants Aguirre to be a mad, raving tyrant while Herzog wants a quiet, darker conquistadore which would not bring audiences to the edge but to squirm in their seats. Kinski does not have a lot of dialogues, but the ones he has brings out that perverse, sadistic shade which every actor worth his salt would want to achieve.
Sample This -
Aguirre overhears dissent in his ranks, Turns to his trusted lieutenant and says
' That man stands a head taller than me, That may change'
Or
When another raft of the expedition is stuck in an eddy and Ursua proposes to send a rescue team, Aguirre whispers to his lieutenant
'That cannon is getting rusty'
Not that a finely etched character is the only good thing in the film. Or perhaps one of its flaws.
As celebrated as this film is [I have just arrived late], what I didn't understand was the lack of any panoramic shots of the Rainforests (Or did I miss them).
Most of the film is shot from the raft, from the viewpoint of the gold - seekers. The camera comes ashore only sometimes when the expedition is on land. The rainforest through this genius of a technique is transformed into this dark, unknown place where only the doomed dare to tread. This is emplified when Inez- mistress/wife of Ursua walks into the forest following the execution of her 'master'.
But with all due respect if that's the objective, then wouldn't showing the vastness of the rainforest add to this aspect of the film. Maybe that's why I'll never be Herzog.
The cinematography of the film is nothing much to write about especially when one takes into account that it was shot in the breathtaking Peruvian jungle. The first few scenes including the soft focussed surf of the raging river, the dark of the forest [middle], the last scenes of Aguirre with his companions, both dead and alive are one of the few exceptionally captured moments on film.
If Herzog is to be applauded for all the subtlety, what I can't understand is the need to fudge the plot by probably a useless scene of the slave lamenting the coming of the Spaniards.
What makes the evil of the Aguirre stand out is this unfazed look played so masterfully by Kinski. The only love, it seems Aguirre has in his life is his daughter. Throughout the journey on the river, the audience is made to believe that there could be a lustful aspect to this relationship but as death & degeneration unfold, even incest is too tooty-fruity for Lope de Aguirre. For him there's only fame and power, and in it all the glory.
- I'm Aguirre, the wrath of god. I, the Wrath of God, will marry my own daughter and with her I will found the purest dynasty the world has ever seen. We shall rule this entire continent. We shall endure. I am the Wrath of God!"
When the chopped head rolls of and counts 'SIX' & obviously the monkey scenes at the end are scenes par excellence, not much because of the composition of the shot but the sheer brilliance of the 'idea'.
I feel like I'm onto something here. Aguirre is the sort of film whose theme I'm completely enamoured by. Apocalypse Now, Predator, The Beach. The jungle swallowing you, eating you up and survival just another thing you do in the jungle.
A must watch movie, a slice of history but more than that follow a man to his destruction, you just want to get into the mind of Aguirre when he has these visions of Glory and Power.
Here I come, Herzog!
Photo Credits

Friday, January 30, 2009

Cotton Candy



Dec 2006-07
Arkavadi, Tamil Nadu.
These pictures were shot during 'Covering Deprivation'- a course in journalism school.
Found these languishing in a forgotten corner of my laptop. At the point these pictures were taken, I was grappling with questions...whether being in that village was voyeuristic. One of the village elders shot back once asking if anything could be changed by being written about or being captured in lens. It's been 2 years and I still don't have answers to any of those questions. I can cite examples, but they are not of my doing, not the change I thought I would bring about. Not the stories I want to tell.
The kids look happy.
Photo Credits: Nitin V George

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Foot Soldiers Of Tibet (Contd)

JAMPA TASHI

The Present
Jampa Tashi is a prisoner
Jampa Tashi supports the Dalai Lama's Middle Path Approach, though he is no longer a monk.
Jampa Tashi realises the importance of modern English education, so I find him with a book of alphabets (English) looking at pictures of apples and balls and cats and dogs.
Jampa Tashi stays at the Gu Chu Sum [See footnote] centre in McLeodganj, India

The Escape
Jampa Tashi cannot escape his district so he travels to Lhasa, secretly acquires a passport to travel to the China- Nepal border.
Jampa Tashi spends 6600 yuan (about Rs 32000) for a guide.
Jampa Tashi is expelled from the monastery after his release.
Jampa Tashi is released on November 29, 2006

The Past
Jampa Tashi spends his time in prison reciting Tibetan mantras. The power of Buddhism gives him inner strength.
Jampa Tashi spends 7- 8 years in solitary confinement. (This time there was another person in his cell intermittently, I presume!).
Jampa Tashi also spends 4 years in jail where the Chinese try (torture?) to instill Maoist ideology. (There were a group of 17-18 mates/monks).
Jampa Tashi spends 4 years working on a prison farm.
Jampa Tashi and 3 other monks arrive in prison.

How He Got Here
Jampa Tashi is sentenced by a county court to 12 years in prison including another 4 years of deprivation of political rights. One of his mates gets 5 years in prison, another 15.
Jampa Tashi is detained for one month and three days.

How He Got Here…really
Jampa Tashi is frustrated since the Chinese restrict admission to monks, so he and a few others paste 'Free Tibet' slogans on a county gate on 29 March 1994.
Jampa Tashi spends the first four years of his life as a monk renovating the monastery destroyed by Mao's Cultural Revolution.
Jampa Tashi is sent to the monastery at age 17.
Jampa Tashi is a farmer from Chamdo in the Tibetan Autonomous Region

What He Said
- I think the Chinese take away Tibetan resources, products. I think the Chinese are hungry
- The Chinese told me Tibet was developed. They asked me to surrender and the prison sentence would be lowered.
- Today I'm Free, But only physically

Jampa Tashi is a prisoner.

Footnote
Gu Chu Sum is an organisation established by ex- political prisoners of Tibet. The name refers to the months when major demonstrations occurred in Lhasa.
Gu – September 27, 1987
Chu – October 1, 1987
Sum – March 5 1988
http://www.guchusum.org/
Photo Credits: Sushmit Ghosh

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Foot Soldiers Of Tibet


I had never heard of Ama Adhe. But ever since we set foot in or actually rode into Himachal Pradesh, Sushmit couldn’t stop telling us how important it was for us to meet her.
So we made our way to the Tibetan Reception Centre for the newly arrived refugees. I was expecting a bent, frail, haggard 70/80 something year old woman.

After all 27 years spent as a political prisoner in a Chinese prison must take its toll. 27 years is what Nelson Mandela spent in prison. I hope Aung Sang Suu Kyi doesn’t have to spent 27 years before the junta disperses in Burma and democracy is restored.

Wow 27 years, that’s perspective. Come to think of it political prisoners are such a great minority group to make films and television documentaries, not to mention transsexuals, animal activists, Muslims, prostitutes, underworld dons, Bengalis.[See footnote 1]

So accompanied with a translator-friend, we sat outside her room on the top floor of the building. Ama Adhe came out, greeted us and sat down. She was old, but anything but bent or haggard. I don’t remember if she had a rosary or knitting needles.

I take my qualification seriously. And television journalists hardly miss a chance to showcase their intellect, even if they don’t really have anything to say or show. I decided to ask her questions, which were 'off-beat' aspects, missed by the foreign correspondent and the stringer alike. How was your childhood? Tell us a bit about your family. What happened?

In the middle of another such stupid question of mine, she got up, went to her room, leaving us baffled, only to return with a copy of her biography - Ama Adhe: The Voice that Remembers: The Heroic Story of a Woman's Fight to Free Tibet by Joy Blakeslee.
She handed it to me, asked us to read it, and sat down. (That Hurt!)

Well, since it was the last copy we had to return it, and haven’t been able to find another. We continued talking albeit, without having to play the roles of interviewer/viewee (I think it was in my head). We asked her about the young people she mentors especially the ones who escape from Tibet. We asked her if she agreed with the Dalai Lama’s Middle Path approach.

Today Ama Adhe is 76/77 years old. Her Kham dialect (If my notes can be trusted) is hard for even present day Tibetans to understand. It seemed to me as if 27 years in prison have only freed her.

Ama’s a spokesperson for the Tibetan cause, a cause célèbre. I still don’t know how much I know about her but these should help- Articles that we came across preparing for the meeting.

www.psychologytoday.com/articles/pto-19980501-000025.html
www.rangzen.com/archive/98/06_india/adhe/index.html

She beamed at us when it time to leave. Her only regret, her biography has been translated into many languages, but not in Hindi. So if you know someone who can translate from English- Hindi this is your chance.

So we decided to take some photographs of her. I was wondering if I should keep my arm around her for the picture. And then suddenly Ama put her arms around us, and held us tight.

Post Scriptum
I have never really given Freedom, a thought. Unless I thinking from another point of view. I don’t know what suppression feels like. As an Indian male, things are more or less easy for me. I wonder if I could ever stay even a week in prison. 27 years seems eternity. I’m not even 25. I can’t even give up a meal; hunger strikes are so out of the question.

What is to be free? Political Freedom emanates from the idea of being free within. I wonder if that’s true. Seems to me at this point of time.
For me, three weeks later Ama’s more than just a Tibetan activist. She’s an example of what it could possibly mean to be free. The battle to be free inside is probably the hardest, the games the Chinese play after probably just whispers.

Ama’s journey makes for an incredible experience. What do I take from that experience and How? I don’t know

Yeah the Kids expression’s really misleading. He was quite happy to be in the picture with me contrary to popular belief.
[Footnote 1] A chance meeting of two film-makers revealed to one of them how film-makers/television reporters fall into the trap of looking at human beings as subjects to be filmed, life in camera angles. This is true as an experience when I saw a funeral some years ago as a great photo-op, full of colours of the flowers, the green sheets covering the body and only after the procession had passed I saw in it the grief of death. It was colourless.

Photo credits: Tenzin Choeying & Sushmit Ghosh

For Cáit (continued)...Im an Addict!




Smokers say it's quite hard to quit. I'm not one...not anymore. A mountain @ 14000 odd feet did what i though would be quite impossible. But of course one must remain addicted to something. I have discovered Tea.
For the past 24 years, I’ve had bed tea served to me. But it’s only in the last six months that I realise how much I crave for a brew. The obsession led me to buy a Twinings pack to last me through this ride, which of course made for an excellent gift to the Tserings.
Here: At Moonpeak Express. Our refuge. An artist’s workshop disguised as a café. Sushmit and I have gulped down kettles full and when we were on the cusp of bankruptcy perhaps two. Through sheer accident I realized that leaving a bit of the magic ingredients in the water keeps the taste going in the cup through a session.
Herbal, Mint, Camomile???, Hibiscus, Lemongrey. Take your pick.

My favourite...naah I like all.
photo credit: Sushmit Ghosh



For Cáit




Now I should explain. These pictures were just meant for a friend to view over the Net as I couldn’t mail the files. Watching them over and over makes me go back to a time last month where pure bliss seemed endless. So here they are…a peek into my moments of inspiration…or should I say Flukes.

Daisy Sparrow
I wonder if I were ever attached to something like I’m to my Motorcycle. This picture was taken on a winding road by a farm past the Bir Monastery in Himachal Pradesh. One of the many snaps of my bike, this one maybe reflects what I see everyday. My Ride.

Can my epitaph read…
Here lies the Motorcyclist
Who craved the sights, sounds and the hills
Loved the girls and the stopover meals
Just another dude on Wheels

Yeah - shit lyrics, but its 5 in the morning!

photo credit: Nitin V George